Monday, 21 January 2013

Le dernier jour à Paris (samedi 19 janvier)

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We took a little while to get going on our last day in Paris.  We decided to go shopping as it was cold and slippery outside so spending any time was going to be a bit more difficult.

Montmartre scene
It had stopped snowing  when we left in the morning but there was a lot of snow around covering cars, roofs, trees and plants, and of course the streets and footpaths.  We took the metro to La Bonne Marché and then spent a very nice time looking at the food in the epicerie before moving on to the designer clothes area, where I hoped to get something that was on sale but of course all the best things were gone. There was a of pair of very nice leather gloves with a wool lining that were not on sale  that I coveted but at a price of around  $300 even I drew a line at spending that much.  Lisa tried on a whole lot of interesting hats that she kept finding and Bev took photos of her in them for later publication. 

Notre Dame Cathedral
By mid-afternoon we were getting hungry so we decided to go to a restaurant that had been recommended by Paul and Dany.  I had the name and address plus a description that it was next to Notre Dame.  I took that literally but as I had an inadequate map and I was cold I got lost (at least that is my excuse).  So we literally walked completely around Notre Dame looking for this restaurant.  The women were getting a little frosty toward me as I continued in my quest for the restaurant.  I was getting cold and almost ready to give up, but Lisa took some control and off we went to finish the quest.  Finally we got in the right area for the restaurant and then voila there was the street.  The little restaurant appeared on our left, a quick look at the menu  suggested that it would be right place for us in terms of the food that I wanted to eat, and the women agreed although I suspect it was out of sheer hunger, cold and exhaustion. 

We were shown to a table by a grumpy Parisian maitre’d who asked if we wanted an English or French menu. We wisely chose the French menu.  It took us a while to choose what we wanted and then when ready to order no-one would go first so he stalked off while we sorted out the etiquette for our little group.  The etiquette was that Bev should have gone first but she wanted her role models go first so that she could follow their mastery of the French language. I wanted the women to go first.  So after we had sorted all that out we called him back and Lisa selected her dishes (escargot, boeuf bourgignon, and le special dessert), Bev then followed (escargots, cuisse de canard confit, tiramisu) and I finished with (escargot, magret de canard avec sauce orange, and tarte tatin).  The meals were superb, although the desserts were probably not the best I have had, but for value it was almost the best we have had on our trip.  The wine was Bordeaux which they probably bought for 4 and sold to us for 19.  While we were there three young women walked in and asked for a seat.  They had a couple labels on that suggested they were New Zealanders so Lisa turned around and asked if they were New Zealanders and received a confirmation that yes they were and they were from Christchurch.  That was the limit of their conversation with us.  We then overheard them ordering in English from the menu and completely deconstructing a salad, so that she might as well have said just give us lettuce.  The look of disdain on the maitre’d’s  face was a picture in itself.  They did not have a word of French as far as we could tell. 
Music by the Seine

We had had a late lunch or early dinner as the idea was to go back to the apartment and pack for our departure for Canada the next morning (Sunday 20 January).  On the way back in the train Lisa befriended an Australian man who asked her to accompany him and his two godsons for drinks.  Apparently he had overheard Bev and Lisa talking and had then engaged in conversation.  He invited Lisa to accompany them for dinner.  I am not sure what his motivations were but Lisa decided it was OK and checked we were fine about it (of course we were) as it meant she had something to do while we reorganised our bags.  We gave them directions to the area they wanted to go and we headed back to the apartment, reorganised my bag and then thought that we had better check our flights given the snow that was around and that the morning forecast had been for more. 

Outside Notre Dame
Bev went on to the internet and discovered that Air France had cancelled our flight for the next morning.  We then had a look at the Air Canada site and found that our flight to Ottawa was still scheduled.  With no flight in the morning it meant missing the plane to Canada.  Trying to go by air was not an option so I checked Eurostar and found that in the morning they had seats on the first one out in premier class so I booked them, finally being able to do it once I got the credit card working.  It left at 8:13am and got to London at 9:30am so I figured that was more than enough time to get to Heathrow.   At one point I contemplated a later train but it was dearer  and there would have been no margin for error, something that would prove to be needed later. 

Lisa was escorted back to the apartment by her new friends  later that evening and as it turned out it was with some relief.  The Australian (we have no name for him) was a former hedge trader who claimed to have made his fortune prior to the GFC and was now retired.  His wife was in Munich and reportedly drinking Montrachet.  The Australian and his godsons were due to fly back to Munich but like us that flight had been cancelled so we checked on ways that he could get back by rail (plenty of options albeit a little slower than had been planned).  However he seemed to be all over the place, one moment saying that rail would be a good idea, another moment suggesting that his drunk wife would sort it out.  He rarely listened but talked a lot with many unrequested ideas for us.  I think that Lisa didn’t mind the young men but was not at all impressed with their godfather.  She said that the young men apologised for him when he disappeared at one point.  A man who was clearly very impressed with himself.  Not a good advertisement for our cousins across the ditch according to Bev. 

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