Wednesday, 16 January 2013

Conduire à Paris, Sacre Coeur , la Tour Eiffel

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We left for Paris on Sunday morning relatively early as I had told the proprietor of the apartment that we were renting that we would be in Paris at 3pm or thereabouts. 

We were treated to a lovely French style breakfast by Dany and Paul, before packing the car and then backing out of their drive slightly more successfully than the previous afternoon.  The day was beautiful if not cold.  The sky was clear and the sun was coming up as we headed toward le Gois.   Unfortunately we could not use the causeway so we took the bridge and headed toward Nantes.  As we left the island we were enveloped in fog which stayed with us for the next three or so hours of driving not lifting until we neared Le Mans.  We took the autoroute from Nantes all the way to Paris, a rather expensive exercise costing around fifty New Zealand dollars.  However it was very quick and it is safe even though we were travelling along at speeds of 130 km/h something that is never legal on NZ roads.   It did make me wonder why on the small number of motorways that we have we do not have higher speed limits.  According to Paul the motorways and strict enforcement of speed limits took their annual road toll from about 17,000 deaths per year to around 3000 a year nowadays.  The focus is now on the drinking driver as they are a bit problematic. 

When we left Noirmoutier the temperature was about 3 degrees and the highest it got was 5 degrees according to the car.  It was around 4 degrees in Paris and overcast.  Veronica guided us successfully to our apartment and we were lucky to find a park for the car outside the apartment.  Stephane the owner was not there but I called him and he showed us into the apartment took money, provided some advice and then headed away. I took the car back to Gare du Nord.  I messed up a couple of times with the directions (sorry Veronica) but we got there OK in what seemed like quite light Parisien traffic.  In fact the only issue was a bit of congestion as we joined the peripherique. 

Getting into the Avis parking area proved to be a bit of an issue as the card that the woman ahead of us had would not work.  She wanted to see if my one worked and for me to go through after her but rather than wait for me to go on her coat tails she sped off and by the time I had got the car started again the barrier had come down.  Some men behind me put their ticket in and said to wait for them and to go at the same time  - it worked and we all got through unscathed.  That really was enough excitement for the day. 

Well actually that was not quite the end of the excitement.  When we got out of the Metro at Place de Clichy I became completely disoriented and I took an ever increasingly frustrated Bev for an unwanted tour of the Montmartre area.  I finally resorted to Navman who directed us in the right direction.  I enjoyed the walking as I had been driving all day.  But for Bev it was not so pleasant, not the least because it was very cold and drizzling.

We took the metro back to the apartment then went looking for a place to eat and chose one up the corner from where we were staying.  The meal was ok but for the quality I thought it was a bit expensive.  The serveur was thoroughly disinterested in his work but at least he conversed in French the whole time rather than trying to be helpful in English.  While we were sitting in the restaurant there were some flurries of snow which caused us a bit of excitement. 
Sacre Coeur

The next day dawned nice and clear although it was cold.  I came up with a classification for cold after doing what I had been wearing in La Rochelle.  Days are now officially either 3 layer days or four layer days.  Layers refer to Merino and wool.  Cotton layers don’t count.  So far since we have been Paris the days have all been four layer days as the temperatures have barely got above about 3 degrees.  Thus rugged up to the maximum we ventured out.  As we are staying in the Montmartre area it was a good opportunity to go and look at Sacre Coeur.  The basilica which sits upon Butte Montmartre is shown off perfectly in the clear weather. 

Just after climbing to the 2nd Level
It began to cloud a bit as we left it and headed for our other visit to the la tour Eiffel.  We took the Metro as a bus proved too complicated and got off at a point close to the tower.  It was lunchtime and as we had been in the cold for a while, a coffee and a bit food seemed like a good idea.   We found a place that seemed to be cheap and ordered a quiche from the takeaway area only to be told that it would plus cher.  The more expensive turned out to be true at nearly three times the cost to have it warmed and put on a plate with a pinch of salad.  My French was not good enough to argue the point. 

Looking down from la tour Eiffel
Warmed we walked up to the second stage of the tower.  The top of the tower was closed.  I was not really keen to go due to the cold we would experience up there.  The views of Paris were great although it had clouded over by this stage.  After an hour or so up there I was getting very cold and was ready to go down and get warmer by walking around quickly. 

Dusk is falling
We crossed the Seine to the Trocadero where there was a nice view of the tower against the darkening sky.  We were hoping to see it lit up but they had not come on by the time the bitter wind forced us to find the nearest Metro station and go back to the apartment.  We called in at a supermarché on the way back to get some more supplies which included leeks and potatoes for a leek and potato soup which actually turned out to be rather nice although I could not puree it.   The hot soup was a good way to end a very cold day.

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