Monday, 7 January 2013

La tapisserie, Le Mont Saint Michel et St Malo

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Since we left Bruges we have not seen the sun, so Friday morning in Bayeux was no different.  Low cloud and the temperature around 8 degrees. 

Our accommodation in Bayeux
Our first visit was to the Bayeux Tapestry which is a pictorial representation of the circumstances of the environment that led to William of Normandy invading England and claiming the crown for himself.  The Tapestry is a wonderful piece of art and it was wonderful wandering around it and hearing the story.  Harold really was a bit stupid to think that he could keep the crown when he had given his allegiance to William earlier. 

Arromanches - bits of the artificial harbour
We then visited Arromanches on the Normandy coast where the remains of the artificial harbour are still visible in the sea of the coast.  This was the area which the British and Canadian troops had landed on D-Day.  For a temporary artificial harbour it proved to be remarkably permanent. 

Our next visit was Le Mont St Michel.  I was there three or so years ago.  It is a stunning place to see and to visit, particularly the first time.  I managed to miss the turn-off to it but Veronica managed to guide me to it via a different route although she got a bit confused by the changes they have made to the parking which is now a good couple of kilometres from the site.  A shuttle bus was available but to help keep people skinny there was a five hundred metre or more walk to the shuttle.  In the area  where there had only been grass and scrub last time a veritable village of accommodation had grown up.  The shuttles were reasonably frequent and I was surprised at how many people were visiting given the cold weather (although normal for this time of year).  We took the shuttle as we had only a little amount of time to do the tour it being mid-afternoon. 

Near the entrance of the Abbey and village we found out why there were changes.  The goal was to remove the existing causeway as it was contributing to the silting of the bay.  Also the authorities wanted to return its natural state as an island.  To enable access they were essentially building a bridge and were taking down the causeway.  It will make it all look very good in the future. 

Winter at Mt St Michel
We toured the Abbey, avoiding where possible a tour group of Japanese people who tended to walk at about half my pace although closer to that of Bev’s.  For Bev the place was a bit of an experience and for me the second time it was a different experience where I saw things I had not seen the first time.

It was getting dark when we left the Mt St Michel.  I had found what looked like a nice little hotel in St Malo, not in the old city Intra-muros but reasonably close.  The hotel was called the La Rance and overlooked the water.  Veronica got me there with no problems and I only had to go around a Carrefour twice due to missing the exit. 

For Lew (outside Intra-muros St Malo)
We found the hotel and I requested a room, and of course with us being late it was on the very top floor with three flights of stairs to lug up the suitcases.  Again I did it all in French with this lovely woman proprietaire who engaged with me asking where we had come from and where I lived.  She was a delight and extremely helpful including suggesting several places where we could have dinner.  We had a room that looked out over water toward the Barrage de Rance which is a barrier that allows the tidal flow to run a power station.
The car outside Hotel La Rance
La cocotte

We went to a nice little restaurant that specialised in fish.  Bev had a really nice dish called a cocotte  which was a metal casserole in which the fish had been cooked in a sauce.  It was gorgeous to look at.  I had a dish that consisted of three different fish with a beurre blanc sauce.  It was a lovely meal with beautiful flavours and brought to an end a wonderful day.

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