Sunday, 20 January 2013

Culture et la neige





We had an early start today.  The weather was promising snow and to be rather cold.  It was about -5 degrees when we ventured out to visit Sacre Coeur as it was close by and Lisa had not been there before.  It was bitterly cold with a wind chill factor taking the experienced temperature to -8 according to Lisa and Pauly. 

We took the metro to Musee d’Orsay which is in an old railway station.  Lisa knew the right station to get off and then guided us accurately to the correct place.  We bought tickets that enabled us to go to both the Musee d’Orsay and the Musee d’Orangerie.  It included an exhibition about the relationship between fashion and art in the 19th Century that was quite interesting.  I had gone out before Lisa and Bev and was just standing around when I was asked a question by a woman which once I understood it was that she wanted to know where to get the pamphlet for the exhibition.  I said that it was at the beginning of the exhibition and then she asked me where I came from. I told her and she laughed and asked how I was coping with the cold.  I replied OK and off she went laughing away. 

We saw some of the impressionist paintings and then it was time to find some food.  I took the women on a bit of wild goose chase but we did find a nice little café where there was a view of the street.  We ate simply, a croque monsieur/madame and an omelette.  It was substantive, well cooked and tasty.  Just as we were leaving there was a manifestation (demonstration) where the demonstrators were almost outnumbered by the police who were standing around in the freezing weather with their shields.  We think the demonstration was by people who were effectively stateless - they had no right of abode in France or the EU.  We then walked across the river to l’Orangerie and spent another hour or so in that art museum. 

My torment
Bev pretending to be warm in Ferris Wheel
When we emerged it was dark, the wind was cold and we began heading to the Metro station at the Place de la Concorde.  We got slightly delayed due to the beauty of the Eiffel Tower all lit up, and beside us a smaller version of the London Eye (a ferris wheel).  Lisa got seriously excited and decided that we ought to go for a ride.  I protested as I was cold (still suffering the effects of a cold) and just wanted to find somewhere warm again.  Bev caught the enthusiasm and next thing I knew we were in an unheated, draughty pod with flurries of snow swirling around the Ferris wheel.  We got a neat view of the Champs Elysees and also of the Eiffel Tower.  I thought it would just be one revolution, but no, it kept going around.  We were laughing, or the girls were at me, while I bemoaned the fact that we getting far more for our money and that was I mad paying money for to freeze to death.  Nonetheless I would not have missed that moment of madness for anything. 

We headed back to the apartment to warm up.  By the time we had emerged from the Metro at Pigalle the street and footpaths were covered with a thin layer of snow which kept getting thicker.  It looked magical.  We took a lot of photos of course. 

In the evening we went to the Café des 2 Moulins, which featured in the movie Amelie where we met a friend of Siobhan (a friend from Wellington).  Megan is a New Zealander who did a French assistantship  about five years ago and liked it so much that she did another before seeking work in Paris where she has been at NZTE for the past few months.  She is now seeking another job as her contract is about to run out.  
Snowballing

We sat by the window watching the odd car sliding around in the snow, motorbikes unable to stay upright and people slipping in the slightly icy conditions.  The bar was not very full for a Friday night which we assumed was due to the more sensible people staying home in the warmth.     While there were not a lot of people in the bar it was still very noisy with French techno-pop being played which meant that after about two hours of shouting at each other we agreed a bit of peace and quiet was required.  Despite the cold weather the smokers were still outside under the heated lamps smoking.  As an aside I have been amazed at the number of smokers who despite temperatures of zero degrees still sit outside smoking.  Even the weather has not provided an incentive to stop smoking. 

Cafe des 2 Moulins
The streets were quiet with virtually no traffic apart from the odd taxi creeping cautiously along the street.  In the meantime I had gone inside to get my camera so I could record Paris under snow.  Lisa, Bev and Megan were not so quiet with much shrieking going on as they made snow balls and threw them, mostly inaccurately, at me. We spent a wonderful half an hour out in the cold throwing snowballs at each other and generally behaved like adolescents before going inside to continue conversing. 

It had been a very full and wonderful day where we did things cultural, met a lovely new person and had a number of exciting experiences.

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